Wanzai Summer Cloth Making Technique

Jiangxi
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It is said that during the Northern and Southern Dynasties, Lin Siyuan, a farmer in Wanzai Township, Jiangxi Province, discovered the resilient herb ramie and peeled off its skin to weave curtains, which had a very good effect. Since then, the Han working people in Wanzai have gradually improved the method of spinning ramie and used pure ramie fibers to weave summer cloth. The summer cloth weaving technique in Wanzai has been passed down for more than 1,600 years and was included in the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage protection list in my country in 2008. Wanzai summer cloth is "soft and smooth, as flat as a mirror, and as light as a silk gauze". Its yarn is fine and soft, the edges are flat, the weaving is uniform, the color is beautiful, it does not wrinkle or deform, it is easy to wash, cool and sweat-clearing, and it is famous throughout the country. It was listed as a tribute by the court in the Tang Dynasty. It also won a gold medal at the Panama International Exposition in 1940 and was exported overseas. It is one of the three major specialties of Jiangxi. Wanzai summer cloth is completely handmade, divided into spinning yarn and weaving cloth, and there are dozens of subdivided processes. To weave yarn, wet hemp is split into thin strands by hand and twisted into fine yarn. Generally, two or three taels of yarn can be woven a day. Fine work is the result of meticulous work. If you want to weave high-quality summer cloth with a high thread count, it is difficult to weave one or two taels of yarn a day. There are four processes in weaving: warp yarn, sizing, looming, and weaving. Among them, warp yarn and weaving are the most difficult. Warp yarn is mostly woven by men. In a cool place, the yarn is threaded and brushed with fine white rice sizing. Weaving is mostly done by women. It is not suitable to weave in extreme heat or extreme cold. Summer cloth has a wide range of uses, and can be used as bedding, mattresses, wall cloths, door curtains, handicrafts, industrial cloth, etc. The production tools used in the summer cloth weaving technique mainly include scraping tools, scraping boards, spinning bricks, winding frames, yarn nail rods, material cylinders, scraping heads, warp racks, brushes, brush machines, buckles, sheep horns, drag rakes, split hinge rods, stools, looms, shuttles, weft knives, warp knives, weft insertion rods, warp guide rods, cloth rolling guide rods, yarn picking knives, support rods, palm hanging rods, etc. According to the 1940 edition of "Wanzai County Chronicles", Wanzai summer cloth has two major characteristics that are not available in other ports: First, the quality of ramie is strong. Other places use bleaching powder and acid water to wash ramie. There are many clear springs in the mountains of our county, which is convenient for washing. It is naturally made without the addition of drugs. It naturally turns hard into soft and shows elegant and clean colors. Second, after the cloth is made, other places use sulfur smoke to fumigate it in order to achieve temporary beauty. Our county has always strictly prohibited this practice, so the more it is worn, the more colorful it becomes. It can be seen that the Wanzai summer cloth weaving technique, which carries the essence of thousands of years of traditional hand-made production, not only embodies the hard work and ingenuity of the working people for thousands of years, but is also a typical representative of traditional fabric art.

Intangible culture related to the heritage

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