The Yi costumes, like those of other ethnic groups, were created to adapt to nature and the needs of survival and development, and have a long history. Yi literature records that "Ayoa first invented the spinning and felt rolling, Pumo Niyi invented the spinning and weaving, Juejue Wuzhi invented the tailoring and sewing, Ahe invented the gold and silver making, and Jiborer invented the helmet and armor." In the Han literature, the earliest record of Yi clothing can be found in "Huayang Guozhi? Nanzhongzhi": "The big tribe of Yi people is called Kun, and the small tribe is called Sou. They all have curved heads, wooden ears, iron rings, and knotted clothes. There are no great princes." After the Tang Dynasty, there were more and more records. Chen Ding's "Travels in Yunnan and Guizhou" recorded that "Yi women sew leaves into clothes, which are fluttering and fairy-like. The leaves are like wild chestnuts, very large and soft, so they are durable and can keep rain out." "Manshu" (Tang Dynasty) said in the first chapter of the journey: "The middle of Qiongbu Taideng (now Xichang and Mianning in Liangshan) are all Wuman. Women wear black silk as clothes, and their length is all over the land." "The Unofficial History of Nanzhao" (Part 2) records that "the men are black and naked, with their hair tied behind their ears, wearing felt and carrying swords. Noble women wear pullovers with square collars like the word 'well' and no lapels. They cover their heads about an inch to the ground, and wear black sheepskin decorated with bells and ropes." The clothing of the Yi people in the Song Dynasty maintained the Tang style, still with "a bun on the top, bare feet, and wearing felt or leather" (Taiping Huanyu Ji). The Qing Dynasty's "Qiongxi Yelu" records that the Yi men in Liangshan "have their hair tied in a big bun, which is tied on the forehead with a bamboo hairpin, and wear a black felt hat that is larger than a winnowing dustpan. They wear black and white felt clothes. Women wear short coats and long skirts, and wear bronze mirrors, conch shells, and the like on their shoulders." "The Luo Luo people are the Black Yi people. They wear topknots, barefoot, and wear felt. They carry knives. Women wear flowery clothes and long skirts, with their hair loose and barefoot. They wear gold and silver earrings like tent hooks." "Men wear topknots, wrapped in blue scarves, and short brown felt shirts. Women wear big blue cloth hats covering their topknots, with the pieces hanging down behind them. They tie red silk around their foreheads, wear long shirts and short skirts, and are all barefoot." (Volume 6 of Huang Qing Gongzhi Tu) In the Xiaoliangshan area, "Men wear topknots, wrapped in blue scarves, short shirts, and felt shirts. Women wear topknots, flat hats made of blue cloth, intertwined with long blue cloth belts, and decorated with pearls and stones. "Necklaces with white beads, skirts with edges, bare feet" (Volume 6 of "Imperial Qing Tribute Map") From the primitive clothing of ancient times, such as "wearing feathers and skins" with the main functions of avoiding harm, keeping warm and covering shame, to the later clothing with multiple functions such as keeping warm, covering shame and aesthetics, beliefs and customs, the Yi clothing has gone through a long development stage, from a simple, simple and elegant style to a gorgeous and diverse style, and its development presents a clear historical context. However, today, the number of Yi people wearing Han costumes is increasing, and the number of Yi people wearing Yi costumes is decreasing. [Distribution area] The Yinuo clothing dialect area centered on Meigu County, Liangshan Prefecture, Sichuan Province includes Leibo, Ebian, Mabian, as well as parts of Ganluo, Zhaojue, Yuexi and Jinyang. Among them, Meigu is a typical representative of Yinuo dialect clothing. Meigu Yinuo clothing can be divided into three types: Liuhong type, Niu Niuba type and Wahou type. Meigu County is located in the northeast of Liangshan Prefecture, on the west foot of Huangmaogeng, the main peak of Daliang Mountain, and is the heart of Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture. Meigu is the place where the ancient Houqunie branch of the Liangshan Yi ancestors formed an alliance, and it is also the place where the great master of Bimo, Asura, grew up. It is known as the "Hometown of Bimo Culture", "Hometown of Kezhi", "Hometown of Pandas" and "China Ecological Museum". The county is located between 1025310321 east longitude and 28022854 north latitude, covering an area of 2573 square kilometers. The terrain is complex and diverse, with continuous mountains, magnificent momentum, overlapping peaks, beautiful and spectacular, steep cliffs, surrounded by high mountains, and deep river valleys. The highest altitude is 4042 meters and the lowest altitude is 640 meters. The total population of the county is 220,000, of which the Yi people account for 98.2% of the total population. [Basic Content] 1. Form The costumes of the Yinuo Yi people are rich and diverse in form. There are different classification methods according to different standards. According to age and gender, it can be divided into baby clothes, children's clothes, youth clothes, elderly clothes, men's and women's clothes; according to the texture of the material, there are fur, wool, cotton, linen, silk, leather, and jewelry includes gold, silver, copper, agate, pearls, coral beads, etc.; according to history, there are ancient, modern, contemporary, modern and contemporary clothes; according to the season, there are winter clothes, spring and summer clothes, autumn clothes; according to occupation, there are folk clothes, Bimo clothes, Suni clothes, etc.; according to the ceremonial place or purpose, there are festival clothes, wedding clothes, funeral clothes, war clothes, etc. The costumes of the Yino Yi people retain the ancient legacy of "wearing a felt, wearing a headdress with a right lapel, wearing a trailing skirt, a bun, and a green scarf". The typical attire of a young man is a blue headscarf, a heroic knot called "column" in Yi language pointing to the blue sky, showing his heroic spirit, three wax beads strung in a line on the left ear, a small black beard, and a musk bag on the chest; the top is often embroidered with exquisite patterns such as crescent moons, window panes, flints, and cow eyes, and has no collar; the bottom is a wide trouser leg, usually made of 3040 feet of blue or blue cloth; the feet are wrapped in leggings, a dagger is hung on the waist, and he likes to wear a charwa and felt, and a layer of black cloth about 30 cm wide is added under the charwa without a beard as decoration. The "Heavenly Bodhisattva" on the top of the man's head is an ancient attire for men, which is regarded as the residence of the guardian god and is sacred and inviolable. Young women's tops are tight and gorgeous, and they pay more attention to chest, shoulder and sleeve decorations. They like to wear red coral beads and silver earrings and collar ornaments. They wear red, yellow and green pleated skirts. A triangular purse is hung on the upper right corner of the skirt to hold needles and small ornaments. The outer embroidery is exquisitely circular or semicircular, ox-eye, flint, fern and other patterns, and decorated with colorful flowing whiskers. They like to wear a bamboo mouth string box or needle box with exquisite patterns on their chests, which contains copper or bamboo mouth strings or needles. The top of the head is a rectangular headscarf made of black cloth folded into multiple layers. The headscarf of married women with children is changed to a lotus leaf-shaped hat. The clothes and skirts of middle-aged and elderly people are mainly plain colors, and the earrings are changed to round jade earrings. For underage girls, the skirt is a three-section pleated skirt with black edges of white colors, a single braid, and the earrings are mostly seashells. 2. Craftsmanship The patterns of Yino Yi costumes are unique and exquisite, with many decorations and complex and exquisite craftsmanship. Luxurious clothing is mostly made of gold, silver, copper, jade, stone, bone, etc., and is decorated by craftsmen through beating and carving. 1. Making flowers. The clothing of young people has rich patterns, bright colors, and is harmonious and unique. The decorated parts include collars, cuffs, sleeves, backs, hems, trouser legs, trouser legs, headscarves, hats, purses, etc.; the patterns are mostly sheep horns, ox eyes, flints, cockscombs, rings, waves, herringbone patterns, tooth patterns, suns, moons, plaids, etc., and often appear in two or four continuous forms in the decorative blocks. The decorative patterns of clothing reflect a strong totem belief and religious consciousness, such as the baby cockscomb hat, which is embroidered with ox eyes and tiger heads. The clothing of middle-aged and elderly people has fewer decorative patterns, and mostly uses a single color block to construct a solemn, stable and mature beauty. 2. Color and lines. Paying attention to color matching is an important feature of Yi clothing. Red, yellow and black are called the "three primary colors" in Yi culture. Different color combinations show the Yi people's color aesthetic awareness. This combination of "three primary colors" is exquisitely highlighted in women's clothing. The choice of colors, lines and patterns of Yi clothing varies according to different ages and genders. For example, flower arrangement, embroidery and cross-stitching use colored silk threads as raw materials, which can be arbitrarily matched to form various patterns. They are mostly used for young people or women's clothing; while applique, patchwork, flower arrangement and inlay are limited to monochrome cloth. One pattern has one color, and multiple patterns have multiple colors. In the use of color, the Yi people show their distinction and use of the cold and warm, purity, brightness and hue of colors. 3. Layout skills The first is the selection of the decoration position, which is generally determined by the two standards of practicality and beauty. For example, the collar, cuffs, corners of clothes, tongues of shoes and other parts are often patched and locked to make them wear-resistant; for example, the chest of the top, the middle of the trouser legs, the waistband, the upper of the shoe, the upper of the hat, the shoulder and other parts are often embroidered, showing beauty and gorgeousness. The second is to divide the decorative surface. The larger decorative surface is divided into several pieces. For example, because the pleated skirt is long and drags on the ground, it presents many straight folds when worn, so it is often decorated with horizontal ribbons below the knees, creating a vertical and horizontal contrast effect and partial complete beauty. The third is the combination design method. That is, continuous combination and continuity, emphasizing symmetry and stable beauty. 3. Clothing and folk customs Making clothing and dressing is not a simple process, which contains many unique aesthetics, beliefs, folk customs, and psychological habits of the Yi people. According to different needs, choose different days to make baby clothes, birthday clothes, and dowry, choose different dressing methods and different fabrics for different ages and dressing places, etc., all of which are prescriptive. The production of Yi clothing is all traditional handmade, and its production process is relatively complicated. A piece of upper skirt is completed by one woman independently, and the sewing process takes one month. Making a felt blanket requires the following processes: selecting wool, choosing an auspicious day, inviting craftsmen, processing and making, and the production process requires combing wool, cloth, initial shape, spraying water, rubbing shape, finishing, forming, drying, printing and dyeing, etc. The Yi people also have many clothing taboos. Such as day taboos, fabric taboos, production taboos, location taboos, wearing taboos, and age taboos. [Basic characteristics] The first is the uniqueness of color selection. Yino clothing emphasizes stable and bright color blocks. Different color blocks and raw materials are often selected according to age, gender, and dressing places. Through matching, unique moods and cultural connotations are displayed. The second is the richness of pattern selection. The Yino clothing pattern decoration methods mostly take the shapes of the sun, moon, stars, mountains and rivers, animals and plants. The patterns are simple and bright, and the patterns are relatively concentrated on the chest, shoulders, cuffs, and lapels of the upper skirt. In particular, the chest and sleeve patterns are gorgeous and exquisite. The craftsmanship is all hand-embroidery, among which the most basic craftsmanship is cross-stitching, applique, patchwork, coiling, inlaying and lock-stitching. The third is the diversity of accessories. The Yi people have extremely rich accessories, mainly on the head, chest, waist, hands and other parts, including gold and silver bamboo hats, gold and silver earrings, seashells, coral beads, honey wax beads, triangular purses, duta, bracelets, rings, hairpins, etc. The processing and production skills are very superb, especially the production of gold and silver accessories can be called a wonder of national craftsmanship. The fourth is the comprehensiveness of culture. Clothing reflects the religious beliefs, aesthetic tastes, craftsmanship and historical cognition of the Yi people. It is an important carrier of Yi culture and contains very rich humanistic information. It is called "history worn on the body". [Basic Value] 1. Historical and cultural value. Yi costumes are an important carrier of Yi culture. They contain rich contents such as the regional style, social characteristics, aesthetic consciousness, primitive worship and belief of Liangshan Yi people. They reflect the traditional concepts and psychological consciousness of Yi people in aesthetics, religion, customs and so on. They are of great value for studying the development history of clothing culture and art, folklore, religion and history of the Chinese nation. As Mr. Guo Moruo said, "From costumes, we can see the trajectory of national cultural development and the mutual influence between the fraternal ethnic groups. The production methods, class relations, customs, cultural relics and systems of the past dynasties can be seen at a glance. They are excellent historical materials." 2. Aesthetic and artistic value. Costumes reflect the history of the development of national crafts, are a mirror of national crafts, and are a living history of aesthetics. They are of great value for studying Yi crafts and aesthetics. From costumes, we can intuitively see the level of craftsmanship of a nation in textile, printing and dyeing, leather, sewing, tailoring, embroidery, jewelry and other crafts. For example, the Yi people still practice the ancient "mud dyeing technique" of using mud as a dye, the craft of dyeing and weaving fabrics with plants as pigments, the techniques of selecting patterns, picking flowers, appliqueing, and mending flowers in the embroidery of women's clothing, the techniques of processing and sewing sheepskin cloaks, and especially the processing techniques of gold and silver jewelry, leather armor, and leather bags, which can be called a wonder of national craftsmanship.