Miao brocade weaving skills

Yunnan
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There is no written record of when the Miao brocade technique originated. The Miao people have had five major migrations in history. About 1,200 years ago, after the Miao people entered the mountains and ridges of the southwest, they developed their brocade with a relatively stable farming life. The Miao brocade technique has been passed down from generation to generation by Miao women, from mother to daughter. When a daughter gets married, her dowry must include a brocade strap woven by herself. The exquisiteness of these Miao fabrics is an important criterion for the Miao people to evaluate a girl. The Miao brocade weaving methods include picking weaving, braiding and machine weaving. Pick weaving belongs to wide brocade, while machine weaving and braiding are mainly used for clothes or brocade belts. The raw materials used for Miao brocade are plain and colorful. It uses white yarn as the warp, black yarn and white thread as the weft. Then use a smooth bamboo piece to pick the warp from left to right according to the design pattern, and then introduce the weft along the bamboo, and then cycle to form a brocade cloth. There are two types of Miao brocade weaving techniques: the warp-through and weft-break method and the warp-through and weft-break method. The former is more widely used, from the eastern Miao Xiangxi to the western Miao Chuxiong area. In the Xiangxi area, brocade is generally made of fine cotton yarn or silk yarn as the warp, and coarse cotton, wool or silk yarn as the weft. Most of the brocades woven by the warp-through and weft-break method have diamond, geometric patterns, word patterns, and round flowers, which are generally used as quilt covers and are called coarse brocade. In the past, there were also flower handkerchiefs and headscarves woven by the warp-through and weft-break method using fine colored silk threads as warp and weft yarns, which were called fine brocade. The colorful brocade patterns woven by the warp-through and weft-break method in Taijiang County, Huangping County, and Jianhe County in Guizhou are very rich, including dragon patterns, dancing patterns, heron patterns, fish patterns, and geometric patterns. The brocade patterns are the most abundant in Shidong, Gedong, and Wuhe areas of Taijiang County, with gorgeous colors, and are generally used as waistbands and backs. There are many patterns on Miao brocade, most of which are collective graphics, mainly large diamond frames that are continuous and extended with each other, and different patterns are picked inside and outside the diamond. The patterns include sawtooth patterns, tiger claw patterns, tadpole patterns, dragon beards, ancient spots, etc. The brocade with exquisite craftsmanship and beautiful appearance is the fine work of Miao women. Brocade flower belts are also a major content of Miao brocade. Flower belts are used to decorate aprons, skirts and Miao dress belts. The application of flower belts is more popular than brocade cloth. They are mostly used for waist belts and skirt belts. They can also be used as mattress belts for Miao women, and are also gifts for guests. When Miao families have distinguished guests, they usually give flower belts as a sign of respect. In addition, flower belts are also tokens of love given by Miao girls to their lovers. When Miao young men and women are in the process of love, if a Miao girl falls in love with a boy, she will go home to weave a beautiful flower belt and give it to the boy at the right time to convey her feelings. From the beautiful and elegant Miao brocade, people can feel the unique clothing culture and taste of the Miao people. Therefore, Miao brocade is not only a simple and practical clothing and accessories of the Miao people, but also reflects the Miao people's pursuit of beauty. In 2008, the Miao brocade technique was selected into the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage protection list.

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