Brocade Weaving Technique
Yunjin weaving technique, a traditional technique item in the fifth batch of representative items of Huai'an municipal intangible cultural heritage. Historical evolution and distribution Yunjin is an outstanding representative of my country's excellent traditional culture. It is named for its gorgeous and beautiful appearance, like clouds in the sky, and has a history of 1,580 years. Yunjin is known as the "Four Famous Brocades in China" together with Shujin in Chengdu, Songjin in Suzhou, and Zhuangjin in Guangxi. In ancient silk fabrics, "brocade" represents the highest technical level of fabrics. Yunjin is a great collection of the art of weaving cotton in all dynasties, and is the first of the three famous brocades in ancient China. It was a tribute to the royal family in the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. Because of its rich cultural and technological connotations, it is called the last milestone in the history of ancient Chinese brocade craftsmanship by experts, and is recognized as an "Oriental Treasure" and "China's Unique". It is also one of the most precious historical and cultural heritages of the Chinese nation and the world. It is now mainly distributed in Nanjing and Lianshui Hongyao. Hongyao is widely distributed in seven villages in the local area, including Lizhuang Village, Wangliu Village, Dajinxu Village, Xiaojinxu Village, Jincheng Village, Lisan Village, and Zhuji Village. Lianshui County Tiangong Yunjin Weaving Co., Ltd. and Lianshui County Huaxia Yunjin Weaving Co., Ltd. have gathered more than 80% of the country's Yunjin weaving experts. Basic content and artistic characteristics Yunjin weaving is 5.6 meters long, 4 meters high and 1.4 meters wide. It must be operated by two people, the jacquard worker and the weaver. The person sitting on the machine is the "jacquard worker" and the person sitting under the machine is the "weaver". The weaver must dig the flower plate according to the warp opening raised by the flower puller, and apply gold and color. The big flower building wooden loom consists of five parts: the machine body, the flower building, the opening mechanism, the beating mechanism, and the warp delivery and winding mechanism. When weaving, the warp and weft must be interwoven in five aspects: first, the warp is separated from the upper and lower parts to form a shed, which is the ground opening and the pattern opening respectively; second, the weft is introduced into the opening; third, the weft introduced into the shed is pushed to the weaving mouth; fourth, the woven fabric is led away from the weaving mouth; fifth, the warp of the warp shaft is sent out. The above five parts are operated manually by the flower puller and the weaver respectively. The first three movements are continuous. The opening movement of the warp and weft and the opening of the ground are realized by the weaver controlling the shoji with a pedal. The opening of the pattern is realized by the flower puller pulling the flower manually and the weaver controlling the shoji with a pedal. The other movements cannot be mechanized and are all operated manually by the weaver. Many weaving formulas have been summarized. For example, the design formula is: "It is not suitable for large flowers to have a single stem, and large fruits should use two branches." The formula for picking flowers and tying the book is "Only the same shuttle and the same color can be combined." The formula for pulling flowers is: "One swing, two lifts, three copies, four meetings, five lifts, six holds, seven pulls, eight digs, and nine scatters." These nine words are the essentials and sequence of pulling flowers. The formula for throwing the shuttle is: "Five flat and three leaning", "Falling flat, scattering straight, dot weaving and picking". The formula for digging flowers through the tube is: "Thread, bounce, separate, let", etc. When weaving some complex brocade fabrics, the fabrics often have to memorize dozens of color combinations, and only about 5 cm can be woven every day, so Yunjin is also known as "an inch of brocade is worth an inch of gold". In the weaving technique, Yunjin uses "color halo" to introduce the main flowers layer by layer. It is rich and elegant, with a solid texture, thick and beautiful patterns, and rich and solemn colors. A large amount of gold thread is used to form a unique style of splendor. Weaving gold and silver and using peacock feathers as the main raw materials, used in colorful flowers, are the most precious and most technologically advanced parts of Yunjin weaving techniques. At the same time, Yunjin is both royal art and official art, with the characteristics of official supervision and business operation. It is also a tool for the feudal ruling dynasty to "be close to the noble and the humble, and distinguish between power and prestige" and consolidate the imperial power, which is incomparable to other items. It can be said that its weaving technology and artistic style are also unique in the world. Yunjin is the culmination of brocade weaving techniques from past dynasties. It is the first of the four famous brocades in ancient times. The "inch of brocade is worth an inch of gold" stitching is still handed down by hand, especially the gold-added brocade, where each flower has a different color. It cannot be copied and processed by machines, providing valuable reference experience for the modern weaving industry to study traditional silk weaving techniques. (No pictures yet, welcome to provide.) (No pictures yet, welcome to provide.)