The making process of Bouyei cloth

Guizhou
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Guanling Autonomous County is located in the Beipanjiang River Basin. Its climate is subtropical monsoon humid climate, with mild weather and abundant rainfall all year round, which is suitable for growing cotton and indigo. The craftsmanship of making cloth of the Buyi people is largely due to the unique local natural environment. Most of the Buyi people in the Beipanjiang River Basin live in the low-temperature river valley area, which has a subtropical and subtropical monsoon humid climate, mild weather and abundant rainfall all year round. The soil on both sides of the river valley is fertile, which is suitable for growing cotton and indigo. There are large tracts of green oak forests on the mountains around many Buyi villages, which can provide a steady supply of dyes for the production of cloth. The craftsmanship of making cloth of the Buyi people is spread in the Buyi settlements such as Xinpu Township, Gangwu Town, Puli Township, Bangui Township, Yongning Town, Duanqiao Township, Bade Township, and Guansuo Town in Guanling County. The ancestors of the Buyi people in Guanling County have lived and multiplied in the Beipanjiang River Basin since ancient times, leading a life of farming, fishing and hunting. Nowadays, every village and village can make homespun cloth. Girls learn to weave from a young age. Almost every adult woman has a spinning wheel. Except for the two or three months of busy farming season, they do not engage in weaving or do less weaving. They usually farm during the day and weave at night. In the winter, they weave all day. Indigo is also widely planted in the Buyi area as a raw material for dyeing homespun cloth. The production process of the Buyi people's homespun cloth has a long history. The production process is as follows: 1. Spinning. Before spinning, use a cotton rubbing board to rub the cotton into small cylindrical cotton strips. When spinning, first pull out a thread from one end of the cotton strip and fix it on the reel of the spinning wheel. Then shake the spinning wheel with your right hand, and pull the cotton strip back and forth with your left hand as the spinning wheel shakes. In this way, the cotton strips are spun into cotton threads and wrapped around the reel. 2. Drawing yarn. Drawing yarn is the process of drawing the spun cotton thread into warp yarn. First, nail wooden stakes on the ground according to the length of the cloth you need to weave, two on one side and one on the other side, then thread ten balls of thread onto the ten rolling shafts of the thread drawing machine. When drawing the yarn, hold the thread drawing machine in your left hand and walk back and forth between the wooden stakes on both sides to draw the yarn, and put the yarn on the wooden stakes in layers. Determine the number of layers of yarn to be drawn according to the width of the cloth you need to weave. After the yarn is drawn, comb it and thread each thread onto the reed, and finally wrap the yarn that has passed the reed neatly onto the winding drum. 3. Weaving. Weaving is the process of weaving the weft yarn of the cloth. Before weaving, the pulled thread, winding drum, reed and various parts of the loom are connected and installed. When weaving, the weaver sits at the front end of the loom, and steps on the pedals with both feet to control the separation and combination of the upper and lower layers of warp yarn. According to the separation and combination of the upper and lower layers of warp yarn, the hands throw the shuttle left and right to weave the weft yarn, and pull the reed frame with both hands in turn to tighten the woven weft yarn to ensure the density of the cloth. 4. Dyeing cloth. Indigo and tung oil tree bark are used as dyes for dyeing. Every morning, the cloth is put into the dye vat with dyes prepared. It is taken out once every 30 minutes or so, and then put back into the vat after the water drops dry. This is repeated several times until the cloth is taken out in the evening, washed in clean water, and dried. This is repeated for about ten days. When the cotton cloth turns dark blue, choose a sunny day, put the tung oil tree bark into the pot, and boil it with high heat. After the red raw material of the bark is boiled out, put the blue cotton cloth into the pot, soak it, take it out, spread it on the ground to dry, soak it again, and dry it again, and repeat this several times until the cotton cloth is slightly red and shiny. All the raw materials used in the production of local cloth are cotton, indigo and tung oil tree bark that are native to the local area. The cotton for spinning and the indigo for dyeing are all grown by the local Buyi people themselves, and the tung oil tree bark is taken from nature. The production of local cloth, from spinning to dyeing, more than 40 processes are all completed by hand. Due to the complicated production process of homespun cloth, many production processes are difficult to describe. The homespun cloth of the Buyi ethnic group is thick and strong; its color is blue with green and green with red, and it has a unique style. Various clothes, pants, skirts, aprons, ribbons, laces, flower shoes and other products made of homespun cloth are simple and elegant, generous, with many patterns, including wicker, lattice, bucket pattern, twill, etc., with a high artistic level. The level of homespun cloth production technology has gradually improved with the development of farming technology. Its technology itself not only records the development process of the Buyi textile industry, but also is a manifestation of farming culture. It also reflects the farming conditions of the Buyi people in various historical periods from another aspect. The production process of homespun cloth is complicated, and each process is completed by hand. Its delicacy and high requirements are difficult to match with other types of manual labor. These manual skills are the crystallization of the long-term wisdom of the Buyi people, and it is difficult to be replaced by modern technology. It has always coexisted with the life and cultural style of the Buyi people. Various ethnic costumes made of homespun cloth have unique styles and rich cultural connotations, which reflect the life, customs and religious beliefs of the ancient Buyi people. With the development of modern economy and technology, the impact of foreign culture has led to changes in aesthetics. The craftsmanship of homespun cloth is facing the impact of new culture. Today's young people no longer wear their own ethnic costumes. Some middle-aged and elderly people who still wear ethnic costumes have begun to use raw cloth to make clothes because they are afraid of trouble. The craftsmanship of homespun cloth is complicated, the technology is difficult, and the learning cycle is long. In addition, a large number of young people in the Buyi area go out to do business and work. They are scattered all over the country, and no one can sit down and learn the skills of homespun cloth making. The craftsmanship of homespun cloth is facing the risk of being lost.

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