Dingxing Beijing Embroidery

Hebei
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Jing embroidery, also known as palace embroidery, is an ancient traditional embroidery craft of the Han nationality. It is also a general term for embroidery products centered in Beijing. It began to flourish during the Ming and Qing dynasties and was mostly used for palace decoration and clothing. It uses exquisite materials, has exquisite techniques, and is elegant in style. Dingxing Jing embroidery is a branch of the Jing embroidery family. It has been passed down from the Qing Dynasty to the present day, and the Dingxing Jing embroidery technique has a history of more than 100 years. In December 2014, Dingxing Jing embroidery was selected into the national intangible cultural heritage list. The embroidery thread used in Jing embroidery is silk. Silk is called silk in the south and velvet in the north, so some places also call embroidery "velvet embroidery". Silk can be dyed into various colorful colors. Embroiderers split the velvet balls into thin threads according to the different needs of the embroidery. The thinner the embroidery thread is, the more delicate the embroidery work will be. "Gu Xiu Kao" said that Gu embroidery "split silk thinner than hair, and the needle is like a hair" to describe the delicacy of splitting silk. Beijing embroidery also splits silk during embroidery, but it is not as fine as Suzhou embroidery. Therefore, the stitches in Beijing embroidery works are more obvious than those in Suzhou embroidery, because Beijing embroidery pays more attention to usage. The glory created by Beijing embroidery is inseparable from its solid material foundation. Like other embroidery types, the tools used in Beijing embroidery are composed of relatively basic embroidery frames or embroidery frames, needles, embroidery threads, scissors, silk base materials, etc. Nowadays, people are accustomed to calling the embroidery methods used in embroidery as needlework or techniques, which were commonly known as "methods" in the embroidery industry in the past. Generally speaking, when embroidering, the pattern to be embroidered should be traced on wax paper first, just like the sulfuric acid paper used for drawing in the current production, which has a certain thickness, transparency and toughness, and then a needle is used to poke fine holes on the wax paper along the outline of the pattern, similar to the "rubbing plate" in the current clothing plate making; through these small holes, a layer of special powder is spread, which is mostly a mixture of gypsum powder and kerosene; nowadays, the same method is used, because kerosene is more volatile, and the traces left on the fabric after embroidery are wiped off with cotton cloth dipped in clean water. Of course, gasoline can also be used. This step is called "leaking powder". In this way, the pattern is "copied" intact on the embroidery ground. Gently shake off the excess powder, then you can split the silk, match the colors, and then start embroidery. However, in some places, in order to save trouble, they directly use machines to spray or print the embroidery draft on the base material for embroidery, and even cut corners in the embroidery process by using the base color of the embroidery draft to complete the embroidery. The basis for the design of Beijing embroidery patterns comes from the etiquette system followed by the ruling class. Common themes include: dragon, phoenix, python, unicorn, lion, twelve chapter patterns (sun, moon, stars, mountain, dragon, Chinese insect, Zong Yi, algae, fire, powdered rice, Fu, Fu), Shoushan Fuhai, eight treasures, auspicious clouds, peony, hibiscus, hydrangea, round flower, happy longevity, bats, hundreds of children, etc. The supplementary clothing representing the rank of civil and military officials includes various birds and beasts. These patterns have the meaning of distinguishing the rank of the wearer, such as: dragon, phoenix, python, unicorn, etc.; secondly, they contain some kind of beautiful meaning, such as: eight treasures, peony, happy longevity, bats, hundreds of children, etc., which express people's wishes for well-being and auspiciousness. Unlike the creative freedom of painting and embroidery works, a considerable part of the commonly used patterns of Beijing embroidery cannot be used and designed at will. For example, the twelve chapter patterns are the exclusive decorations on the robes of emperors of all dynasties and are subject to strict regulations. Although this limits the flexibility of Beijing embroidery creation, it also avoids the arbitrary performance of individual embroiderers to a large extent, thus maintaining the continuity and unity of tradition. Now, Dingxing Beijing embroidery products have gone abroad and into the world, and Beijing embroidery works have also become treasures among national diplomatic gifts, winning a good reputation for Chinese culture and skills.

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